Imagine a realm where the air is fresher, the green is greener and every raindrop narrates a tale of enchantment. Noisy cicadas, birds, a scattering of rain – and the tender beginnings of the years rice crop. Waterfalls, miles and miles of meadows, monsoon clouds over the hills, misty mornings, swaying trees, lush green anywhere and everywhere. Such an amazing nature’s transformation when it rains! The birds chirping, the water flowing into some drain,the water dripping from the corners of the roof all a melodious background music to a beautiful backdrop. Kodagu comes alive with cascading waterfalls, lush forests, and cool, pleasant weather. Nestled amidst the verdant Western Ghats of Karnataka, capturing the essence of rain – kissed Kodagu, misty mountains, lush greenery, scenic view points and the ethereal fog and the sounds of rain and critters in the coffee estate. For the people of Kodagu, monsoon season always remains close to their hearts. The incessant rain, the dampness and the burning desire for warmth are the things that make it special. The rain- washed scenery with mist covered hills and foggy mornings, creates a mystical atmosphere that is both soothing and invigorating. During the monsoon season the place transforms into a magical paradise making it a perfect destination for nature lovers. Driving through Kodagu in the monsoon can be both therapeutic as well as a learning experience in the myriad forms the colour green presents itself. The winding roads flanked with overgrown hedges in a mix of a ‘ Harlequin green ‘ make for a good attention grabber that actually frame the picturesque background. The symphony of insect sounds to reach a crescendo during the rainy season. The gentle patter of raindrops on leaves and the gurgling of streams all add to the acoustic landscape. From gliding frogs to colourful reptiles and melodious insects, monsoon rolls out the red carpet for many of our flora and fauna. All finding solace in the rhythm of rain while the monsoon in Kodagu means day – long rains, marshy roads and no festivities, the land comes alive with the variety of wild plants.Wild mushrooms are possibly the most delicious of the seasonal treats the monsoon turns up in Kodagu. Bamboo shoots curry is a cherished kodava delicacy known for its unique and robust flavours. Salted wild mango curry, varieties of colacasia (kembu) jackfruit seeds, crab, bhel meen(fish found in floods in paddy fields) the delicacies prepared by the medicinal plant (justicawynaadensis) are indicative of monsoon in Kodagu. These dishes are exclusively prepared during the wet months. Rain makes everything beautiful. However, monsoon in the past years have been brutal and have displaced hundreds and have left some with no means of livelihood. There could be lots of damages and severe disruptions, but it is all in all nature. Heavy rains during monsoon always bring challenges, such as landslips, trees being uprooted cutting off power lines in roads which cause in blocking the smooth passage of vehicles thereby paralyzing the normal life. Roads and bridges get inundated and electricity and network suffering damagedue to the gusty winds. It has been experiencing heavy rains accompanied by strong winds, causing significant damage to property and infrastructure. Power lines have been brought down. Multiple landslides, fragile hills, overflowing rivers, crumbling roads and Power infrastructure have left the region on the edge. Heavy rain is not the only cause of the floods and landslides in Kodagu. The modification of land use to accommodate tourism and linear corridors cause severe disruptions. The destruction caused by the rains is worsened by human intervention such as slope modifications and land use changes, which must be controlled. Kodagu also has to retain its forest cover that act as a buffer against extreme weather. Natural calamities are a way of life. However, not all of them occur due to the fury of nature.
For years we have been blind to the absence of rules and laws pertaining to land. The existing land laws are very ambiguous and do not support environmental protection. Forests destroyed, hills carved out to make wider roads. Wetland converted into housing colonies, our sacred temples remodeled to see more appalling to tourists, who have no regard for the sanctity of the place. Gorgeous Coorg during a glorious monsoon. And all we can think of is how to exploit and destroy her.
Kodandera Mamatha Subbaiah
